|Note: Static timing is usually
done when the timing has not been set at all such as after an engine rebuild
or when the timing plate(s) are replaced. This can be skipped if the bike
will run well enough to go straight to strobe timing but some of what is
done for static timing is also done for strobe timing. In this case read
through but for the most part only the last page would apply.
The first order of business
is gathering the tools you'll need. Some things can be substituted such
as the anolog multimeter. In it's place you can use several test leads
(wires with alligator clips at both ends), a D cell flashlight battery,
and a bulb out of a cheapie Wally World flashlight. I don't have a shot
of this right now but when I have a chance I'll add this as well.
1. Timing light, preferrably
the inductance type. Mine is just a cheapie I bought at either Wally World
2. Analog multimeter. Digital
works also but I find the needle is easier to see out of the corner of
my eye. Some digitals have an audible "continuity mode" which is even easier
but for economical and practical purposes I used the anaog meter.
3. Phillips screwdriver
for the timing plate screws and long flat screwdriver for tapping the plates
4. Small hammer for tapping.
I'm using a wooden hammer here but a tack hammer or plastic headed hammer
is also fine (carpenter's or ball peen might be a bit heavy to lightly
tap in small increments).
5. Larger adjustable wrench
to turn the crank using the timing stud nut. Note: With higher compression
engines (overbored or fresh rings, etc.) it might help to temporarily pull
the plugs from the cylinder head. This will eliminate compression resistance
and make it easier to be more accurate when turning the crank.
6. 5.5mm socket or wrench.
Here I had to use a 7/32" as I don't have a 5.5mm and it appears that's
what size the nut and bolt are on my points. A small 4" adustable wrench
or short needlenose pliers will also work.