Loosen the three screws
that hold the entire timing plate in place. I have replaced mine with small
bolts but you will likely have phillips screws. Lightly tighten the timing
plate screws to where they are just barely snugged up. You want to keep
a little friction on the timing plate or it will turn feely and it won't
want to stay where you set it. Snug enough that the plate won't move on
it's own but not so tight you are unable to nudge it back and forth.
Use a long standard screwdriver
and and nudge it all the way clockwise (image above). Try to avoid using
the points themselves or their mounting screws to tap as this could
knock the points gap out of whack and you'd be spitting in the wind from
there on out until the points are gapped again. YUP! Done that, been there.
You should be fairly safe using the screws (red arrows) or the screwdriver
tits on the outside edge of the timing plate (green arrows) as shown in
the image below. Just make sure your screwdriver hand is steady before
you get to tapping. ;-)
The meter at this point should
read 0 ohms (image below).
Okay, quick check: F mark for
jugs 1-4 is lined up with the index mark and the meter reads 0 ohms. So
far so good. Gently tap the plate counter-clockwise until the needle on
the meter finally moves showing inifinite resistance (the other end of
the scale in the image below). This is where the points begin to open and
break contact.
To check how close you are turn
the crank clockwise until the needle on the meter moves again, then turn
the crank in the other direction unitl it moves once more. Make note of
where the F mark is when the needle moves in both directions. It should
move right about the same time the F mark and index mark line up. Bear
in mind we are not shooting for sniper accuracy here, but getting in the
ballpark so the bike will fire up and run well enough to set the timing
properly. |
